Brava
by: Joaquin Alonzo - MundoQ
The challenge when visiting Culebra is trying to decide which of the many fantastic beaches of the Island to go to. For such as small island, the beaches of Culebra come with a variety of features and particularities. But my mind is set on visiting Brava Beach this time. Brava is an isolated beach on the wild north shore of the Island. I visited Brava seventeen years ago to surf with some friends and although I travel to Culebra frequently, inexplicably, I have not returned since. I always end up floating at another of Culebra’s gorgeous beaches but the images of Brava still frequent my mind after all these years. It’s been too long.
Brava, meaning Brave in Spanish, probably earned the name for its temperamental currents and swells. Nestled within undeveloped hills and protected lands, Brava is disconnected from the tourist beach circuit allowing its endangered visitors, such as the sea turtles that nest here, a chance to get away from it all.
We leave our vehicle where the pavement ends and start heading downhill through the brush. The trail meanders through an overgrown forest following ruts the water leaves when it runs towards the beach after a hard rain. There is not much left of the trail I remember. Seventeen years ago this used to be an open and vehicle-wide rocky road that reached almost to the edge of the beach. Not anymore. All the years of unhindered vegetation growth have almost completely swallowed our way to Brava. We get to walk through tunnels of thick vegetation filled with curtains of red and green hanging vines and aerial roots that create a canopy offering protection from the sun, but not from the heat and humidity.
Earlier, a local had described Brava as a demanding beach when I mentioned where I was heading to. Well, you know what? So far I haven’t even seen it and I already feel that Brava has required a darn good effort from me. Just like it did last time. But I am eager to make it there, not even the wasp nests that we encounter on the trail will deter me.
After an hour hike downhill we finally make it to the flats behind the beach dunes. There is a pond that has formed exactly where I had camped back in the day and has given life to a lush mangrove forest. The rain water that runs down the hills has accumulated here and mixed with water from the high swells that flood the beach sometimes during storms forming this pond. The organic matter of the forest paints the water dark red and brown and I am pleasantly surprised to see many fish in it. This kind of habitat of shallow waters and good canopy cover is ideal for wading birds and I am glad to see that it’s full of life.
Now engulfed by mangrove forest the smell of salty air is noticeable and we can hear the crashing surf, guiding us. The wave’s oceanic thunder is relaxed in timing but powerful on delivery. We follow that sound instinctively and begin walking along the edge of the pond. We head towards the waves.
We leave our vehicle where the pavement ends and start heading downhill through the brush. The trail meanders through an overgrown forest following ruts the water leaves when it runs towards the beach after a hard rain. There is not much left of the trail I remember. Seventeen years ago this used to be an open and vehicle-wide rocky road that reached almost to the edge of the beach. Not anymore. All the years of unhindered vegetation growth have almost completely swallowed our way to Brava. We get to walk through tunnels of thick vegetation filled with curtains of red and green hanging vines and aerial roots that create a canopy offering protection from the sun, but not from the heat and humidity.
Earlier, a local had described Brava as a demanding beach when I mentioned where I was heading to. Well, you know what? So far I haven’t even seen it and I already feel that Brava has required a darn good effort from me. Just like it did last time. But I am eager to make it there, not even the wasp nests that we encounter on the trail will deter me.
After an hour hike downhill we finally make it to the flats behind the beach dunes. There is a pond that has formed exactly where I had camped back in the day and has given life to a lush mangrove forest. The rain water that runs down the hills has accumulated here and mixed with water from the high swells that flood the beach sometimes during storms forming this pond. The organic matter of the forest paints the water dark red and brown and I am pleasantly surprised to see many fish in it. This kind of habitat of shallow waters and good canopy cover is ideal for wading birds and I am glad to see that it’s full of life.
Now engulfed by mangrove forest the smell of salty air is noticeable and we can hear the crashing surf, guiding us. The wave’s oceanic thunder is relaxed in timing but powerful on delivery. We follow that sound instinctively and begin walking along the edge of the pond. We head towards the waves.
The trail leads to the eastern edge of Brava where the beach ends at an outcrop of large rocks where the hills meet the sea. Shades of intense blues and greens spread in front of us. The scenery is a perfect representation of what you imagine when thinking of a deserted tropical beach where the white foam of the crystal clear waves mixes with the sand under a blue sky with puffy white clouds and green hills as a background, like a perfect postcard. I settle under the same palm tree that is still here at the east end of the beach after all these years. From here I can see Brava in its entirety curving perfectly to my right and being pounded by the waves that give it its shape. There is no one to be seen. I’m glad we brought a lot of water and something to eat because I’m going to stay for a while.
Finally, after seventeen years I made it back. I should have not waited this long. It’s time to float in the ocean again, like those turtles.
Finally, after seventeen years I made it back. I should have not waited this long. It’s time to float in the ocean again, like those turtles.
 |
With six different beaches and tidal pools, Culebrita is a small step from deserted beach paradise.
|
 |
Get acquainted with Punta Soldado, one of Culebra's unique snorkeling and diving spots.
|
|
Relax and ejoy a hole day. Datiles is the perfect beach to do nothing
|
Copyright 2015 by En Culebra. All rights reserved. No image or content may be used for any purpose without written permission. To do so is a violation of applicable copyright laws.
And if you share please give us credit, we love you for that.
And if you share please give us credit, we love you for that.